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Brocade - The Story of a Dharma SeamstressThey were at an art gallery in San Francisco. He was
wearing the sleeveless high-collared
silk monastic shirt she had made for him - yellow charmeuse with a pattern of
little horses. She was kneeling and he
had hold of her hair and was knocking on her head and telling her something
important.
"Learn to make all the monastic garments," said the
translator, "and when I come back I'll teach you how to make the Gampopa hat."
It was 1980 and the sixteenth Karmapa's third visit to North
America. Deborah Luscomb, travelling
with him, was in charge of all textiles involved in setting up his households
and the Black Crown ceremonies - gold satin drapes and wall coverings, brocade
valences, bedspreads and chair upholsteries, thrones, banners, shrines, the
brocade box for the Black Crown. When the Vidyadhara Chogyam Trungpa gave her
the assignment, he also gave her to understand that it was not a one-shot deal,
but that she was to make Vajradhatu textile production a priority for the rest
of her life.
Twenty-one years later, she is still carrying out her
assignment. If you have a sadhana cover,
or a puja table cloth, or chevrons for your shrine, or a pin roll for your
Buddhist or Shambhala pins, chances are you have evidence of her dedication, as
she has been in continuous production ever since. Hence her Shambhala name, Brocade, and the
name of her business, simply Brocades.
If you read the Shambhala Sun, you may well have seen Ane
Pema Chodron on the January 1999 cover, wearing a yellow and red brocade vest
made by Brocade.
Also in 1999, on the cover of Natural Horse magazine, the
Sakyong Mipham Rinpoche appears shooting a bow at full gallop on a horse with a
saddle blanket designed by the Vidyadhara and crafted by Ms. Luscomb - red wool
melton bound in gold wire braid. The
blanket she made for the Druk Sakyong, of white brocade similarly bound, can be
seen in the popular photo of him galloping on his white Lippizaner, Drala
through the 1980 Magyal Pomra Encampment ground at Rocky Mountain Dharma
Center.
Another product of her history is the Namchen banner,
commonly known as the Dream Flag - the Karmapa had Ms. Luscomb called in,
presented her with three drawings in yellow and blue colored pencil, and told
her to make a 'big flag' of it, saying that 'wherever this flag flies, Dharma
will flourish'. She drew the design on
graph paper to meet his requirements of its being exactly reversible, then at
the Boulder Public Library she projected the design on the wall to make the
pattern. She completed the sewing of the
flag and raised it for the first time herself on Midsummer's Day, 1980, at
Marpa House.
A little more than a year later, the Karmapa's body was
shipped from Chicago to Rumtek - wrapped in the same flag.
Deborah Fay Luscomb was four years old when her maternal
grandmother, Edith Powers Fay of Newington, Connecticut, taught her to sew. She
was sewing for a living twenty years later in 1974 when she met Chogyam Trungpa
Rinpoche at Naropa Institute. In the
ensuing year she made zafus and zabutons; went to Taos at the invitation of the
Lama Foundation to set up a cottage industry for the production of chubas and
drawstring-style meditation pants; attended the Urasenke School of Tea in New
York City; learned needlepoint from her first tea teacher, Millie Johnstone;
was asked by Jack Kornfield and Joseph Goldstein to be part of the founding
staff of the Insight Meditation Center in Barre, Massachusetts; returned
instead to Boulder, where she took refuge with Trungpa Rinpoche.
By 1979, the year of her Seminary, she had become the
Vidyadhara's personal seamstress, making ceremonial robes, chubas and even silk
pajamas for him. She would leave his
immediate service in 1983, when she moved to Charlottesville, Virginia, for the
duration of her husband's law school, but would return to it in a most poignant
way in 1987 when, after a tearful reunion with Judith Gostick and Susan
Drommond, also seamstresses to the Vidyadhara, she helped in the making of the
brocade cape in which the Vidyadhara was cremated.
Today, in 2001, along with running her own business, Ms.
Luscomb continues to sew for Sakyong Mipham Rinpoche. A Canadian citizen and resident of Halifax,
she has three sons, Alec (18), Robert (17) and Thomas (12) and has seen a variety
of other service in addition to dharma sewing and motherhood. From 1982 until 1996 she assisted over 100
families with childbirth; from 1992 until 2000 she was involved in the founding
and development of the Shambhala School.
She enjoys practice, needlepoint, Mahjongg, coastal sailing, and
Shambhala Training.
She is waiting, she says, for the first visit of the
seventeenth Karmapa to North America - so he can fulfill the promise of the
sixteenth Karmapa and teach her how to make the Gampopa hat.
In 2016 - fifteen years later - Alec, Robert and Thomas have
grown up and are living in Halifax, Boulder and Vancouver, respectively.
Alec is married to Michelle with whom he has two beautiful daughters.
Ruby and Maisy
As a grandmother, Deborah is still framing thangkas, doing throne and shrine installations,
and making practice and retreat materials. She is also working as a death awareness educator
as well as a Shambhala funeral director. She introduced Death Cafe, a monthly gathering at
which people talk about the D word, and Death Matters, guided meetings to create personal
and funeral directives, to Nova Scotia.
She has spent some weeks with the 17th Karmapa. He has yet to teach her how to make a Gampopa hat.
- Jim Lindsey with photo by Marvin Moore |
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